Wednesday 29 October 2014

Return to the Meat Eating Zone


We decided to pace ourselves very slowly today to mitigate the gruelling previous day. The day started relatively overcast. The prediction of a typhoon system coming through, according to an Austrian trekker that we met yesterday may have been correct. The local chickens were experiencing a typhoon of their own as the playful hotel staff started chasing them around. After our unusually late breakfast, at 8 am, we set off.


Taking a short break next to an old hydropower water pipe the day before 

Already at the great bridge river crossing down below we were against a large flow of trekkers and crew - mostly French folks, all well over 40 years old. This flow intensified at the ''little Holland'' Sirdibus. Even the local ducks, sipping dish wash effluent were an obstacle. Large groups of women gathered to share the days news and gossip, and commentary on my afro-hair as we coasted through the centre of Sirdibus. Not much more can be said about the views today, except that it was getting more overcast with the higher points obscured.

At higher Jagat we had some tea whilst being entertained by some boys playing soldiers. Are they not supposed to be at school? Right after we got caught up by a pack, convoy rather, of mules going up the valley. It must have taken up to 10 minutes for us to wait for the convoy to end. A lot of the load were sacks of grain, probably rice. We later found out that there is a massive hydroelectric power project going on in the area that is receiving these supplies. We also learnt that some of the many porters we saw that day were also going to work on this project. On numerous occasions helicopters zoomed up and down the valley. Some carried large pipes and others hovered, probably to survey the site. It started drizzling as we arrived at the rocky Yaruphant. 


Imagine an army of porters and choppers going up and down this intimidating rocky valley

Amir and co. were fully engaged in preparing lunch as Jason and I sat watching village life pass by. A 4 year old terrorising a 2 year old, a chicken and its chicks foraging from the streets into the tea house until the owner chased the lot out, a furry goat loitering under the table for no apparent reason, and a random porter sitting next to me staring at my diary as I write this entry.


Our final goodbye to the snowy peaks

By the time lunch was over, the threat of rain had subsided. A few villages later, Amir stopped to talk to a man going in the opposite direction with a 3 storey cage full of white broiler chickens on his back. We didn't see Amir for a while until he caught up with us holding a white ball of feathery fluff. Our first meat experience in 2 weeks was going to happen tonight! After Dobhan we hurriedly walked to ensure getting a room at the spa village of Tatopani (the hot water place). It turned out to be full up so we made haste for Khordabesi. Krishna whipped up a fantastic chicken masala to go with beer and great company. A friendly group of trekkers had arrived at the same time.


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