Sunday 27 August 2017

The Mystery of Totality


An explicable but daunting alignment of massive bodies. Massive to me a mere human. Insignificant in scale in our universe, but still relevant. Relevant because the moon can be small enough and close enough to Earth and our Sun massive enough and far enough to every now and then collude to blot out the Earth from the Sun's light. We do not see this anywhere else in our observable universe. This trickery of orbital kinetics, whose mechanism we understand pretty well, gives meaning at least to those who have been conscious of the universe.

It was touted the Great American Eclipse because of the span of the moon shadow in total eclipse landing in the north Pacific, hitting land in Oregon, with Samurai sword precision diagonally slicing the USA until departing into the Atlantic in North Carolina before disappearing. The last one to be described as such occurred in 1918, when technology and means to access and capture the eclipse was limited. The next time it does a similar sweep in 2024, who knows what new understandings we can gain. This is not to belittle solar eclipses in other parts of world but to illustrate that the infrequency of such an event helps mark changes in humanity. In any case, as far as we know, the Sun, Moon and Earth only feel electromagnetic and gravitational forces between each other and certainly have no feelings for some abstract human constructs such as nation states.

My first experience of the total solar eclipse took place in Toccoa, Georgia, USA on August 21st 2017. This was a first experience for literally millions of people. Never before has such a big cosmic event captured the imagination of people from all walks of life, and made accessible to those who might otherwise never have dared to look up or travel to see a solar eclipse. Just by learning the reason for wearing certified eclipse glasses opens a child or someone new to knowledge of the cosmos towards a path of deep intellectual, emotional and spiritual understanding of how the universe works.


11:30 am. The enterprising town of Toccoa put together a little street party and probably gathered more people than it had ever hosted in a while. When Marilyn and I arrived in the late morning, many of the organised spectators had their outdoor chairs set-up and camera tripods arranged at various vantage points in squares, lawns and even parking lots. The restaurants and boutiques were busy along the main street in the run up to midday. It was quite interesting to see so many small businesses in this ''smallville USA'', geared up to sell food and merchandise.  The commemorative t-shirt was too tempting to not purchase! 



Random happy nerd (Courtesy of KMN)

12:00 pm. As we searched for a place to eat, we bumped into a lady and her son. All buzzed for the eclipse, enhanced by their coffee in hand, they were looking for some ice cream to sweeten that buzz. The ice cream shop was inexplicably closed. We got chatting and the lady told us that they were heading just out of town to view it all in a field inside the complex of the Georgia Baptist Conference Center. The modest but growing crowds in between the two-storey buildings, that essentially blocked much of the horizon, started feeling to us a restriction to what was going to happen above. We ate at a regular eatery and when the eclipse sequence began at 1:08 pm sauntered out for a first glance via the precious solar filtered glasses. 

1:10 pm. First contact. As if out of nowhere the ink black moon shadow smudged the top right corner of sun like a circular lid covering a hot pot at snail's pace. In reality the moon travels at almost 3,700 kilometres per hour. It was too early to observe any effect on us here on Earth but one thing was for sure - the final countdown had begun. I was one of only a handful with solar glasses on looking up. Filters of these glasses prevent UV rays from penetrating the eyes and damaging the retina. All you can see is the sun's disk in bright orange and nothing else. 


1:25 pm. Speaking of snail's pace our lunch still hadn't arrived. The restaurant was struggling to cope with the overload of customers. I mulled over how it was possible for the sneaky moon to reveal itself in shadow then disappear. Because the sun was only illuminating the far side of the moon, we were never going to see the near side of loopy loony moon until her grand appearance as a shadow puppet on the solar stage.


1:30 pm. Our lunch finally arrived. We ate with urgency and decided that this once in a lifetime experience needed to be panoramic with full relief. We drove back out into the winding roads of the northern Georgia countryside past brick, wood and iron homes surrounded by woods and fields. People were on their porches having drinks and fiddling with their eclipse glasses when not stealing a glance at the progress of the closure of the large cauldron lid. We weren't feeling it yet but the temperature was falling. 


2:00 pm. On arrival, with sunglasses off, and glancing well outside of the solar periphery l could feel that the ferocious solar luminosity was just as deadly. It was 3 degrees cooler than an equally sunny day the day before at this time. The 300 metre wide field was an opening in some woods that are part of the conference centre property. The sun was high enough in the western sky to be clear of the tree tops. We found a gentle slope in the field as a nice vantage point.


2:10 pm. The dark orb had by now covered over half the sun. The drop in solar radiation could be felt and perhaps most of the heat we were currently feeling was coming from the ground and atmosphere.  The field had lots of people scattered around with excited anticipatory chatter and slight anxiety about when to see what phenomenon and how and, most importantly, making sure that junior doesn't look directly at the sun. 


2:15 pm. We were fully settled on the slope. It was getting darker and darker. I had my ear to the heart of mother nature, alert to the disruption to her natural rhythm. I could only imagine the subdual of little creatures in the trees. Their foraging cut short, belly half full and probably worried about opportune predators. It would have become a deathly silence if wasn't for the very excitable cicadas in the trees that were now chirping even louder for the faux nightfall. 


2:25 pm. Now the sun was the crescent. The cauldron was almost shut. The sky was no longer blue and the twilight was here. Entranced by the sun-moon shadow play, l neglected the swift advance of the biggest shadow on earth from the West. The crescent shrunk to just a baton and, pierced by the lunar craters and valleys, then beads in a split second and then....

2.32 pm. A burst of light around the moon shadow. The corona. We were now witnessing second contact. The surface of sun was now showing its steamy aura and symmetrical glory. It is the hottest part of the Sun (we still don't fully know why that is the case) but does not emit UV rays. The moon blocked the busy part of the central sun and rose the corona out of obscurity. We could remove our glasses and stare up for just under 2 minutes. The surrounding stars were visible. Observation of these stars almost 100 years ago proved Einstein's Theory of General Relativity, and launched him to global acclaim. The corona, the outermost visible atmosphere of the sun is a theatre of visible sunspots and solar prominences, and invisible ejections of plasma and cosmic rays. The bottom right hand corner of the coronal orb had a solar prominence reaching hundreds of thousands of kilometres into space. Compare that with the Earth's mere diameter of 12,742 kilometres! 


Moment of totality seen through a quilt of colour filters (Courtesy of KMN)


2.33 pm. Those precious 2 or so minutes were spent admiring the ever flowing effervescent corona shaped by the deepest blackness of moon shadow you could ever see in the night sky. I stole a few glances at the horizon to the east that was in a sharp orange sunset glow then looked around at the entranced human silhouettes. I looked back at the sun and spent the last minute laid down on my back joining in the orchestra of reactions (wow, ooh, aah, sooo cool...) and the occasional contemplative silence.

2.34 pm. Pfff. If one could only imagine a sound that could describe the disappearance of the corona, it would be that. Of course all this is happening in the vacuum of space, and in reality the amount of solar energy that the moon blocked is next to nothing compared to how much the sun was pumping out across the solar system within those 2 minutes. The first halo of the sun then appeared. We were officially in third contact. Many people burst into applause. There were lots of squeals and occasional tears of joy all around. 

Many thoughts and emotions rushed through me, some unprocessed. One thing that was clear and still remains today was the visual imprint in my mind of an unusual moment. The rarity of the opportunity to view a solar eclipse is certainly a meditation on the impermanence of experiences. Depending on means and luck of location, most people have just a couple of chances to see any solar eclipse but probably just one chance to see a total solar eclipse. By extension it is clear that life is short. It is also clear that when a particular eclipse path repeats itself, humans will have moved on to other forms of civilisation.

Whilst our existence has a mysterious meaning, the solar system cares not for our well-being but somehow keeps the earth stable, faithfully orbiting around the sun and the Moon around the Earth. In the early days of the solar system, the moon used to be closer the Earth and thus completely blotted out the sun during eclipse. The moon orbit is tending away from Earth and by the time we as humans are long gone or evolved into another type of species or entity, our planet will no longer be graced with such near perfection. The universe doesn't just align bodies for our amusement. 

Not long after the moon moved to second contact, Marilyn quipped that it reminded her of the simple model of the atom. A beautiful analogy, using our basic concept of the reality of the nano-scale that we still do not fully understand. The sun's corona as the buzz of electrons, seemingly in any place at once, and the moon shadow imitating the nearly invisible but influential nucleic cluster of protons and neutrons. Therefore we can still unravel the forces of the universe that we perceive by keeping a timeless imagination in our head.


Phases of the Total Solar Eclipse (Courtesy of Sun Oven)