Msafiri Kyrea - The Blog: The Rwenzori Journey

After that 2 a.m. nocturnal wander it was hard to get more sleep. Any evidence of sleep were the numerous odd dreams I had, such as turning up at work with my pyjamas on ( with no one feeling bothered about it at all!). Breakfast was scrumptious as usual: oats followed by a fry up of potatoes, omelette, bacon, onions and the essential banana.

After packing and stuffing into my rucksack my impossibly large sleeping bag with the help of Andama, we started our trek of the day with a soggy and pebbly drop into the valley in order to access the pass that leads us out of it. The sun was already out, as it was 9 a.m., and it was too warm to keep my fleece jacket on. I had a waterproof top and light ponchos ( that I hadn't yet figured out how to un-ply, like those darn supermarket plastic bags...) in case the weather switches and we receive hail or rain in this unpredictable part of the Rwenzori range. It really felt like a summer in the Scottish Highlands! The bogs were more treacherous today and on several occasions the one foot was on terra firma and the other got stuck in the mud, taking the whole leg in up to the top of the shin. My trekking pole, doubling as a bog oar, helped to steady my balance together with clumps of moss, rocks, twigs and pretty much anything stable.

Richard suggesting the better twigs to skip on

From time to time the trails are maintained with ramps on normally impassable sections

As midday approached, clouds were drifting up the Namusangi Valley. We finally passed through, looking back at the Mutinda look-out, and forward into a vast plain of more damaged vegetation but a steady stream surrounded by light green puffs of grass that we had to constantly hop across to avoid another knee deep soaking. Those bizarre montane plants featured again, with leafy crowns that looked like Roman wreaths. We were now one pass away from the lake abundant plains that Bugata camp, our target today, overlooks. James, still on Indiana Jones mode, tempted us to take a higher route to help acclimatise and fulfil his urge to climb anything challenging. We lunched on one of the rolling hills dotting the valley. From this vantage point we discovered that we had all along walked alongside Lake Nsuranja to the North of our route, that was hidden by the girth of the hills. The clouds above us were now rain bearing and after we completed our lunch of tuna sandwich, banana, apple and mango juices. Just as I was settling into a warm spot of bare earth to wolf down the last of the banana, it began to rain. The scramble for rain wear was tedious but by now we were a good unit, with everyone good spirited and patient with each other.

A glimpse of the route, showing that we are halfway to the Margherita Summit (top left hand corner)
Summary of route: Kilembe - Sine - Kalalama - Mutinda - Bugata - Butawu (via Bamwanjara Pass) - Margherita Camps before summiting at
Margherita Peak (5,109m)
- Click on map to get more detail
(Image courtesy of Rwenzori Trekking Services)

We continued on our epic deviation a bit more slowly. I was feeling a shortness of breath and a slight headaches. Constant sips of water and gulps of nuts and raisins helped me along. Lo and behold, we now saw the majestic lake spotted valley. It may not be obvious with all the destruction from that fire last year, but some of the more complex shrubs had recovered and we discovered a hidden nest inside one of these bushes that probably belonged to a sunbird. There was one egg and a twitching little ball of beak and feather: a recently hatched chick. After a brief contemplation on the fragility of life in these mountains, we pressed on in order to not disturb the return of the mother bird, thus improving the chances of adequate protection and nourishment of the hatchlings.

An alternative take of the depth of the terrain unfolding before us

Photo opportunity in Namusangi Valley. Check out my (hidden) retrofitted camel hump complete with drinking straw.

After a detour to sample the waters of the swampy Lake Bugata, we crossed the final valley and slowly climbed the boulder that is the foundation of Bugata camp. The rain had subsided, which was great for photo opportunities. The sun briefly came out just in time for tea on the boulder, whilst absorbing the long valley, speckled with former glacial lakes. Richard dared Jimmy to throw a stone into the Lake Bugata promising great rewards to him if successful. James joined in and after a lot of analysis of the aerodynamic qualities of pebbles lying around and Richard's amazing pebble landing at the swampy edge of the lake, more rain clouds rapidly came in to spoil the party. We scampered back into the hut for warmth and dinner. Richard served up a storm as usual: vegetable soup and spaghetti bolognaise. As we contemplated an imaginary desert, we were served rice puddling with cooked peach!

My smile betrays the absolute, total exhaustion…..

…..plus arriving at an ear drum popping 4,062 metres altitude!(Photo courtesy of J. Chow)

Also check out the The Rwenzori Journey - Day 3 - Photo Album here.

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