We took off just after 7pm and didn´t get very far when we encountered a cargo convoy of mules and donkeys. The track was narrow and the trader was adjusting some boxes thus causing the 100% bottleneck. We sped past the dozy convoy across those wobbly steel suspension bridges.
We then began a challenging uphill route to begin our ascent to above 2000m altitude. There are sparse settlements in this area but rice fields still cover a considerable amount of land here. For the first time since our drive we caught a glimpse of one of the peaks, Annapurna South. The trekking experience was getting even more interesting. Mule convoys, grazing goats, cargo and trekking porters galore. Past one wood we saw a flock of green parrots fluttering and chirping away. The donkey cargo contents were very interesting too: LPG tanks, San Miguel beer (vital fuels for day-to-day living).....the whooh!hah! hollering of the traders urging the sleepy mules on and warning trekkers of the approach of the hooved transport!
More of the range emerged as we climbed. The rest stops and restaurants were charming with traditional stone construction (built for the Nepali demographic, below 5ft 9!!!). The high tree covered hills emerged showing their majesty in sharp contracts to the mountains. At "Super View" guest house we got awesome views of the valley. This area, called Ulleri, is at 2050m. I observed a comatose looking dog with the restaurant owner struggling to feed her a bone. The pregnant mutt just stuck the thing in her mouth and continued sleeping. A herd of buffalo aroused her and we left the stop with a bovine-canine standoff going on. It´s amazing how the big stompers can climb these hills. Buffalos are bulky but hardy animals. Th sheep herds streamed through in different sizes, colours and baa sounds. Some of the billy goats sounded like humans doing goat impressions! Some were grazing literally off the cliff edges!
At Hotel Fishtail we started seeing Macchapuchare (the most imposing peak of the range a.k.a. Fishtail). Beyong here we entered the forests and true tranquilitiy began ( apart from the fatigued gasps for air). Rushing streams bumping on rocks foremd crystal clear waterfalls. Crossing stream bridges we were treated to a spectrum of colours of the submerged rocks and moss infested trees.
The monolith " Hungry Eye" restaurant at Nagethanti was our lunchstop. The Korean and German group we left behind at Tikhedunga arrived there as well and so receiving out order was a big hassle. Luckily Jase and I ordered some chop suey which arrived chop!chop! but the traditional dal bhat took a while to feed the masses.
We set off onwards on a more gentle route past some settlements and forests. We reached an "autonomous" region and the Maoist sentries checked our extortion tickets (we had paid a toll the day before). The arrival in Ghorepani was a great relief as it was getting chilly despite the intense sun. Blue roof Ghorepani is the busiest village so far and has the best views of both Dhaulagiri (the highest peak of the range, above 8000m) and Annapurna South. The sunset provided a unique photo treat. The guest house had a cool stove with a clothes line above it. Benches were arranged around it to provide warmth for tired trekkers. Our room view included Annapurna South and a large basketball court! The night was pretty social and a french group celebrated a birthday following by some singing entertainment from the porters. The french group then joined in the dancing. I didn´t venture anywhere away from the warm stove!
K.
We then began a challenging uphill route to begin our ascent to above 2000m altitude. There are sparse settlements in this area but rice fields still cover a considerable amount of land here. For the first time since our drive we caught a glimpse of one of the peaks, Annapurna South. The trekking experience was getting even more interesting. Mule convoys, grazing goats, cargo and trekking porters galore. Past one wood we saw a flock of green parrots fluttering and chirping away. The donkey cargo contents were very interesting too: LPG tanks, San Miguel beer (vital fuels for day-to-day living).....the whooh!hah! hollering of the traders urging the sleepy mules on and warning trekkers of the approach of the hooved transport!
More of the range emerged as we climbed. The rest stops and restaurants were charming with traditional stone construction (built for the Nepali demographic, below 5ft 9!!!). The high tree covered hills emerged showing their majesty in sharp contracts to the mountains. At "Super View" guest house we got awesome views of the valley. This area, called Ulleri, is at 2050m. I observed a comatose looking dog with the restaurant owner struggling to feed her a bone. The pregnant mutt just stuck the thing in her mouth and continued sleeping. A herd of buffalo aroused her and we left the stop with a bovine-canine standoff going on. It´s amazing how the big stompers can climb these hills. Buffalos are bulky but hardy animals. Th sheep herds streamed through in different sizes, colours and baa sounds. Some of the billy goats sounded like humans doing goat impressions! Some were grazing literally off the cliff edges!
At Hotel Fishtail we started seeing Macchapuchare (the most imposing peak of the range a.k.a. Fishtail). Beyong here we entered the forests and true tranquilitiy began ( apart from the fatigued gasps for air). Rushing streams bumping on rocks foremd crystal clear waterfalls. Crossing stream bridges we were treated to a spectrum of colours of the submerged rocks and moss infested trees.
The monolith " Hungry Eye" restaurant at Nagethanti was our lunchstop. The Korean and German group we left behind at Tikhedunga arrived there as well and so receiving out order was a big hassle. Luckily Jase and I ordered some chop suey which arrived chop!chop! but the traditional dal bhat took a while to feed the masses.
We set off onwards on a more gentle route past some settlements and forests. We reached an "autonomous" region and the Maoist sentries checked our extortion tickets (we had paid a toll the day before). The arrival in Ghorepani was a great relief as it was getting chilly despite the intense sun. Blue roof Ghorepani is the busiest village so far and has the best views of both Dhaulagiri (the highest peak of the range, above 8000m) and Annapurna South. The sunset provided a unique photo treat. The guest house had a cool stove with a clothes line above it. Benches were arranged around it to provide warmth for tired trekkers. Our room view included Annapurna South and a large basketball court! The night was pretty social and a french group celebrated a birthday following by some singing entertainment from the porters. The french group then joined in the dancing. I didn´t venture anywhere away from the warm stove!
K.
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