To get you into the scene, some background to the Sarangkot hill is needed. It is a moderately populated series of villages that overlook Phewa Tal, the Pokhara lake and the river that empties into it. Rice paddies extend from the river valley up to the Sarangkot mountain viewpoint. Most of the people here are farmers for subsistence and trade of agricultural products. Extra professions: teaching and shop owning supplement income. I arrived at the time of the rice harvest, which I never knew was so labour intensive. I helped out in a process called "dying rice" at my “host-grandparents” place. This is when the cut rice stalks are removed from a pile and rice grains are extracted by smacking a bunch against a smooth rock and repeating the process until the heap of harvested stalks is no more. Also, to increase the yield, the used up stalks or straw is laid alongside a pole around which a team of oxen are persuaded ( with the gentle prodding of a stick – depending on who is holding the stick) to walk around, to pound the straw and extract more rice. I was not too good at the rice pounding process so I was given straw laying and oxen handling. I also got to chase away the interfering buffaloes who were tempted by the fresh straw. I still can’t believe they are tame here! The African buffalo doesn't stop for anybody!
Going through one pile of rice takes a whole morning and needs 4 people at most. At times, depending on the urgency and timing of the harvest (in the Tihar vacation many school kids took part in the harvest) whole families can turnover 4 piles a day. We gained 3 sacks of rice (about 60 kgs) from one heap. I was rewarded by host-grandmas colossal dhal bhat platter the size of a serving plate! Believe me, the hunger generation from a low calorie diet makes you crave for the next serving of lentils, radish curry and rice, smothered with buffalo milk and washed down with water or buffalo milk curd. It might not sound appealing to some, but once I got into the rhythm I found this unique diet very tasty.
This particular farm is called “Eklakat” which means lonely field. It literally stands on its own midway up the hill surrounded by the hillside forest, or The Jungle as it is known here. Some interesting birds and troops of monkeys live here and rumour has it that 1 or 2 tigers roam the forest too. Each son and daughter owns a pile so they are also responsible for hauling the respective sacks to their homes. I accompanied one relative who is about my age, called Lakhsman, up to his home, which is not far from where I am staying. He carried one 20kg bag up steep rocky paths through the forest with me just walking ahead and looking back in astonishment (my job was to help him up from the crouch position once he had the bag strap over his head). He could negotiate the tricky steep steps and loose stones without the aid of his hands, which is hard enough for me without a heavy load! I suggested to him he could join the super-strong Gurkha army but then again, being a pacifist, I told him not to give up his day job! He is a teacher.
Rice growing is an age old tradition here. Also, other crops such as millet, wheat, potatoes, radishes, maize etc. have their own seasons. The fragility of the main staples: rice and millet to the elements makes this living fragile. 2 Fridays ago a hail storm destroyed a lot of crops a few days away from harvesting which made the lives of some of the poorer families really hard. One fellow volunteer, Greg, lives with a family whose banana and lentil crop was destroyed. A lack of dhal (lentil) meant that the buffalo milk was their only source of protein. Without much disposable income it will take a while for them to have regular balanced meals again. But when I visited them it was admirable how they were still able to cook up a storm with a smile and leave me stuffed and ready for bed!
I was supposed to lean into some development issues but I got carried away again! I didn’t even have time to explain a certain other wealth generator that grows well on the high hills here and essentially gets you high (I think you know where I am going with this). Will do in my next entry!!
Ciao,
K.
Going through one pile of rice takes a whole morning and needs 4 people at most. At times, depending on the urgency and timing of the harvest (in the Tihar vacation many school kids took part in the harvest) whole families can turnover 4 piles a day. We gained 3 sacks of rice (about 60 kgs) from one heap. I was rewarded by host-grandmas colossal dhal bhat platter the size of a serving plate! Believe me, the hunger generation from a low calorie diet makes you crave for the next serving of lentils, radish curry and rice, smothered with buffalo milk and washed down with water or buffalo milk curd. It might not sound appealing to some, but once I got into the rhythm I found this unique diet very tasty.
This particular farm is called “Eklakat” which means lonely field. It literally stands on its own midway up the hill surrounded by the hillside forest, or The Jungle as it is known here. Some interesting birds and troops of monkeys live here and rumour has it that 1 or 2 tigers roam the forest too. Each son and daughter owns a pile so they are also responsible for hauling the respective sacks to their homes. I accompanied one relative who is about my age, called Lakhsman, up to his home, which is not far from where I am staying. He carried one 20kg bag up steep rocky paths through the forest with me just walking ahead and looking back in astonishment (my job was to help him up from the crouch position once he had the bag strap over his head). He could negotiate the tricky steep steps and loose stones without the aid of his hands, which is hard enough for me without a heavy load! I suggested to him he could join the super-strong Gurkha army but then again, being a pacifist, I told him not to give up his day job! He is a teacher.
Rice growing is an age old tradition here. Also, other crops such as millet, wheat, potatoes, radishes, maize etc. have their own seasons. The fragility of the main staples: rice and millet to the elements makes this living fragile. 2 Fridays ago a hail storm destroyed a lot of crops a few days away from harvesting which made the lives of some of the poorer families really hard. One fellow volunteer, Greg, lives with a family whose banana and lentil crop was destroyed. A lack of dhal (lentil) meant that the buffalo milk was their only source of protein. Without much disposable income it will take a while for them to have regular balanced meals again. But when I visited them it was admirable how they were still able to cook up a storm with a smile and leave me stuffed and ready for bed!
I was supposed to lean into some development issues but I got carried away again! I didn’t even have time to explain a certain other wealth generator that grows well on the high hills here and essentially gets you high (I think you know where I am going with this). Will do in my next entry!!
Ciao,
K.
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