The Manaslu Conservation Area Checkpoint

The prediction of a busy season and the build-up of trekkers at every teahouse made it imperative for us to depart quickly. The path upwards started with yet another rocking suspension bridge. It was going to be a sunny day judging from the cloud scarce sky. The stone and slate Dobhan village was still engulfed in the morning shadows of the surrounding hills. The morning traffic of mules filled the trail with jingling noises and the usual sharp vocal encouragements from their minders. Lots of porters carrying lighter cargo were also on the move in both directions. A lady carrying a baby in a basket on her back was an impressive sight.

The village of Dobhan looking timeless in the morning

No need to wake up the baby...just sling the cot over your head

The sun finally emerged and before long my fleece was off. The shirt and socks hanging off my backpack shall surely dry! The hilltops were looking more barren, sometimes dotted with coniferous trees but down below the vegetation was green and lush, both with wild foliage and domestic plants and crops. After passing Thuldhunga, we were about to see more of the Himalchuli peak, the tip dotted with snow. We stopped at this magnificent village, with a grand name - Yaruphant, surrounded by natural boulders giving it a grotto effect. We had tea and wandered to the higher points of the village to check out the views over a flat river valley. Some domestic furry mountain goats gave the vista some competition. We crossed a new suspension bridge right after, that was built right on top of its decommissioned predecessor.

The journey today took us from Dobhan to Philim

The grotto crossing at Yaruphant

Hanging out with the super woolly grotto goats of Yaruphant

We finally reached the first major milestone of the trip, the start of the Manaslu Conservation Area at Jagat village. The lower part of the village had an intimidating and faded yellow concrete arch with Maoist symbols on it. It was here that we learnt that a major disaster had occurred in the Annapurna range. The freak weather conditions from 2 days ago triggered a cataclysmic series of landslides and avalanches. Amir informed us that up to 20 people died with hundreds missing (such high numbers are due to the peak trekking season). The weather seemed to have affected the Larkle Pass further up our trail. Some trekkers just passed us in the opposite direction after not being allowed to enter the pass.

The yellow arch harks back to the days of separatist Maoist rule

The classic Communist sickle and hammer fading as the yellow arch crumbles

Our registration to enter the Manaslu Conservation Area involved both police and conservation area check points. The lengthy process allowed a close examination of the information provided by the conservation authority. Also a lot seems to have been done in the area of electricity access and grain milling with waterwheels. Further up the trail some impressive canalisation systems cut across the next village. Wild marijuana dotted the trail, and it was very enticing to pick out some stems. No one seemed to be too concerned. Just another wild plant that oddly causes all sorts of legal and criminal mayhem elsewhere in the world ( Just legalise the damn stuff, I say!).

Legal but lethal

Himalchuli Peak as seen from Jagat

Jagat ''beach''

We crossed what is claimed to be the longest suspension bridge in Nepal, before arriving at Philim. I've gotten used to grandiose claims that need to be taken with a large pinch of salt! Philim is a bustling village, with one of the few high schools in the area. It was once again a coincidental arrival with some familiar faces but also some new ones. There was a ''residential'' American duo that told us that they move on up the trails when they feel like it. Their preference actually included to move around without a guide but there authorities at the conservation area entrance imposed a guide on them. I suspect that the surprising presence of WiFi at this tea house was their motivation to stay. One of them updated us on the Annapurna situation. Hundreds of people were affected due to the busy season and the freak unprecedented multiple avalanches. It was quite a social evening. We dined on the same table as the USA grumpy old men and two young Danish couples.