Mt. Manaslu

There is quite often something about dripping water in the wee hours. The sleep at this hotel was accompanied by the unusual continuation of a constantly flowing tap in the courtyard and the hum of the river below giving an uncanny rain effect. As usual I woke up at some stupid time, probably with the urge to go for a leak in the usual twilight groggy daze. For a change the latrine was within easy reach but the gas build-up in me didn't make the trumpeting chorus journey easy. After a scrumptious Tibetan bread and egg sandwich breakfast in the very smoky courtyard we set off towards Lho.

Mt. Manaslu slowly emerges into view on this route.

The landscape was similar to yesterdays, towering rocky lower peaks, lush green forests with wispy creepers and the occasional rural community. The presence of flora like these creepers signalled that we were getting into high altitudes. Loads more trekkers were descending in the opposite direction. We bumped into the Danish quartet that we met in Philim. They had gone as far as Samdo. The Larkle Pass news was still grim. Avalanche risk and slippery descent on the other side. We also bumped into the family from Chicago, as they struggled upwards in the same direction as us. They had made a head start.

Buddhist prayer wheels along the way

We stopped for tea at Namrung, a fast growing village with large tea houses under construction, in the classic regional wood cabin style. The teahouse that we visited was littered with sticker business cards of local and international trekking companies. The sun had by now escaped the shielding of the peaks so it was possible to de-layer and enjoy it. One of the Ganesh Himal peaks gleamed behind us.

Trekking companies of all flavours and humours

We were by now, once again, deep in Tibetan country with signs to a Gumba (Monastery) all over the place along with hilarious small village names (Banjam, Lingling) and the succession of major villages that we will pass through (Lihi - Sho - Lho...sounding like Nepali Teletubbies ). The journey today was mostly up and down, keeping to the south bank of the river. However we were to climb a hamstring wringing 1000m. We had lunch in Lihi. This teahouse was a carpentry job site, children's playground and camping combo. 5 kids played in the grass on top of an animal skin. Their pet dog joined in on the frolics until grandpa launched a piece of wood at it, hitting the canine target, sending the poor pooch yelping out of the compound never to be seen again for the rest of the day. The dal bhat was pretty mediocre here (#dalbhatrankings). Amir's sulk confirmed my verdict.

Mt. Manaslu emerges to the left

We pressed on, encountering heavy mule traffic. Also plenty of porters were lugging goods downhill, one sturdy man carrying a whole generator. Some groups of porters had uniform jump suits, looking like firefighters! We crossed plenty of stupas and prayer scrolls as we passed Sho. The mid-afternoon sun brought the autumnal vista into contrast with the blue sky, along with the gathered husks of harvested maize. The sprawl of Lho came into view, dominated by the most beautiful stupa that I've seen in this valley. At this stupa was our first glimpse of Mt. Manaslu - the 8th highest mountain in the world.

Shear massifs flank the great Mt. Manaslu in intimidating form

Approaching Lho, with its Gumba in the centre

Our place of accommodation was still under construction (would you believe!), with the courtyard acting as a maize sorting yard. It seemed that this was all that was available in Lho. The rickety stairs and the missing banister on the first floor veranda was going to make the nocturnal movements very hazardous. We were by now in the full swing of Nepali life, with greater hazards on the trail, so it wasn't a bother. However, the construction (and agricultural!) works did continue until midnight! Jason and I wandered up to the Lho Gumba that overlooked the village whilst there was still visibility.